It has been a while since my last blog, and in all likelihood, it will be a while before my next. School started yesterday. Not many students showed up – about ten from the whole school. In my next blog, I’ll let you know how things at school work out.
In the meantime, I have had several very fun adventures. And I took my camera along on a few.
A couple weeks ago I went with some other teachers on a desert safari – there was a short four wheel drive trip followed by food, traditional dances, camel rides and sand boarding.
It was about dusk when we arrived (time for breaking fast during Ramadan) and just about everyone descended on the food. Normally I would have too (as you all know I love food), but I decided to walk up on a dune and take in the view. That’s when I found the snow boards that had been left out for our group. After a cautious run down a not-so-steep ridge, one of the teacher’s sons – a rather athletics 13 year old – dropped over the edge of a steep dune and sailed gracefully to the bottom of the dune. I followed – not wanting to lose face – and while my face was spared, I took a major tumble and smacked my head on the sand (sand is hard in dunes) and rolled over a couple times. Despite a little pain, I repeated this three times – without the falls. Aside from having to hike back up the dune each time, it’s a very fun sport.
A couple of days after the desert safari I was able to go with a friend for a drive north and east to a small town above Oman. The town is known for its tourist knick knacks and my friend and I each bought a few things – I bought beautiful silk carpets for my apartment and she bought ceramic pots for her front porch and hallway – and a rug for her living room. But, the highlight was the drive there through the desert. The most common road sign warns of crossing camels. Second is a road sign warning of pedestrians but the man crossing the street is wearing traditional dress. As we pull by the roadside to investigate a group of domesticated camels, we spot a man watching over his flock. He strikes up a conversation in reasonable English and tells me he can organize a camel trek if I am interested for another day – not now because he is fasting. I take down his number and consider it. Would that really be fun, bouncing on a camel’s back in the sun? Maybe on a full moon, I think.
A friend here has introduced me to a shop owner who sells beautiful hand-made rosewood furniture with brass and camel bone inlays. It’s not that much more expensive than what you find at IKEA thanks to the labor being so cheap. The chests have ingenious locking mechanisms and secret compartments. And, a lot is designed to fold up for camel caravans.






I took a few friends by the the furniture shop the other day and while we were looking at furniture it rained – YES RAINED! It’s been over 100 degrees each day since we got here, and no clouds in sight, but that day it was a real desert storm. The rainfall was furious and the winds knocked over fences and trees and even toppled the play structure that had been placed in front of the mall for Ramadan. And the damage was similar across town. The storm even went on to Dubai.



Being in a rain storm here is odd. The sand gets picked up in the rain so when the rain hits you it feels like you are being hit by sand. And, the color of the whole sky turns to brown. Before realizing how strong the storm was we stepped out the back door of the mall to “get a feel of it”. This is a bit like stepping into the path of a tornado and we really are lucky that we survived without even a scratch.
The mall isn’t a bad place to be for a rain storm. In fact, it might be the best place to be. Of course, it was Ramadan, so you couldn’t eat or drink anything, but there was a lot to do. Here’s a picture of one of the local malls in Al Ain:


At another mall, the options are also pretty good:
And, across the street from my house there is a game arcade and entertainment complex I haven’t even looked at because I’ve been busy getting my apartment settled and ready for school. And, they are preparing to add an enormous outdoor / indoor water park on the back of the mall with a multiplex movie theater and much more. But, if you’re forgetting that this is a Muslim country in the Middle East, just look at the food courts at lunch time during Ramadan:


On another note, in the past three weeks I have moved into a new apartment – the beautiful Rotana Hotel days are over. In fact, I’ve moved twice. The first building we moved into had bug problems and was not properly cleaned – or even cleanable. A few people protested the decision and we were given a few alternatives. I chose a 1 bedroom apartment just behind the mall here (which has a big grocery store I can walk to). There were some spacious 2 bedroom apartments coming up in a couple weeks, but I wanted to be settled by the time school starts and I figured I didn’t need another room to furnish anyway. And the finish on my one bedroom is very nice.
A few nights ago I went with my local AA group and several friends of ours on a kayaking trip through the mangroves near Abu Dhabi. We took a short break from kayaking on an island with a nice sand bar. Unfortunately the mangroves here are on the decline just as they are in most parts of the world. But, we got to explore them a little. And then we kayaked back to the cars under the moonlight.
Yesterday I went with a few teachers I am getting close with on an excursion to search for Flamingoes. We didn’t find the flamingoes, but, we did find some herons I’d never seen before and tons of sea shells. So, I now have a shelf of shells behind my bathtub. Unfortunately, I don’t have any pictures of this as my so-called waterproof camera was apparently not waterproof enough to survive the Arabian Sea. I lost everything from that day and won’t be able to take more pictures until I replace the camera – maybe in a month or two when I have gotten more settled into my apartment.
On Friday I will be going camping with the folks from AA. There is a get together planned to celebrate someone being sober for 5 or 10 or 15 years or something like that. So far, most of the people I’ve met in AA here have been a lot of fun to hang out with. This camping trip will involve people from Dubai, who I have only met once. I have my own tent, sleeping back and air mattress so I should be ready for the night. Camping here is one of those things where you get there 1 hour before sunset, and wake up at sunrise to get on the road before the sun gets to strong. So, it should be a short but fun trip. In November and December the weather starts to change so that camping can be a weekend-long affair.
The cultural differences here are becoming second nature – well, some are. The phrase Inshallah - which means essentially (in English) God Willing, or in God’s Time - is common here. Will school start on Wednesday? Inshallah was a common reply. As a result, only ten students showed up; because even things like the first day of school are not really set in stone. This takes a little getting used to, but I am almost there.
For the past few nights I have spent several hours at a cafĂ© in the mall that has free internet. It’s called COSI and is owned by the same company that owns the GAP and Banana Republic and Old Navy. Anyway, they have free internet with the purchase of one cup of coffee. Because of Ramadan they were closing at 1:30 AM, but they would allow me to stay on late inside the restaurant when they left until 2:30 or later if I wanted. The people cleaning the mall didn’t mind my being there either. There is just a level of trust here that doesn’t exist back home. There is an assumption here that people are doing good things, and so there is no effort to restrict people. In fact, everything seems geared toward assisting people. To hammer home the point of trust, a friend’s wallet was returned to the mall security with $3,000 in it. Mall security used his driver’s license to track down his mobile and called him and returned the wallet. People have had laptops returned the same way.
I got my driver’s license the other night and I picked it up at the same time as an Emirate man about my age. (By the way, you get the final license the same day you apply; about ½ an hour later – there’s no mailing). The Emirate man asked me if I’d taken a taxi or if I had a car. I told him I’d arrived by taxi and he insisted on driving me to my apartment. On the way to my place he told me about living in Denver and Massachusetts during college. And, he lamented about Osama Bin Laden making it difficult for him and others to get travel visas – but then bragged that he had gotten a tourist visa to go back once for two weeks. He spoke very fondly of his professors in school, and of the people in The United States in general.
I have found a regular taxi driver, and he is a fun guy. He’s driven a taxi here for 25 years and can get you from one side of town to the other faster than anyone; this despite the fact that he is probably over 65. He also drives the oldest taxi in town, but the car has amazing handling ability. The other night when I went to activate my debit card, I forgot my Residence Visa at my apartment. He zipped me back and forth across town through traffic at a truly frightening pace, and we made it back to the bank with two minutes to spare. The customer service man couldn’t believe I’d made it. When I got back outside, my taxi driver took me home and we laughed the whole way as we fumbled for the words in our respective languages that expressed how fun the whole race against time had been.
But, there are still some cultural things that take a bit of getting used to – and I guess it is things like this that have me worried about going into the classroom for the first time tomorrow. When I went to the grocery store the other day to pick up a few things, the man in front of me was accompanied by three ladies – quite possibly all wives. There had been an article in the paper that morning about matchmakers who specialize in finding good husbands for widowed women. And, the article had all of the justifications for multiple wives that we hear all of the time. The Prophet Mohammed (PBUH) had multiple wives, women need a family unit to protect them, Better that a few women share a wealthy husband who can provide for their children than having their own husbands who cannot provide for them, and so on. It also pointed out that polygamy is on the decline, and that younger men are not practicing it at even close to the rate of their grandfathers. But, the whole idea is so foreign that it seems comical to read about it in the paper – until a man with three wives buys them each cosmetics products at the counter – and the… struggles to pay the cashier.
Things have changed here so rapidly that this man with three wives – I’m just going to assume they are for now – cannot pay the woman at the register because she does not speak his language. She is Filipino and speaks English. She knows her numbers in Arabic, but she does not know the local language. The old man’s Arabic is rusty and he speaks no English, so he fumbles through his money handing her one bill at a time until she tells him it is enough. His nervousness disappears and he turns to his wives with a smile – he has paid for their things – and then turns back to collect his change. You can almost imagine him walking out the front door of the mall into the sand, getting his wives on their camels and then walking home. But chances are he’s driving a Range Rover.
In response to my last blog, a friend in Canada wrote about a contingent in the Lesbian, Gay, Bisexual Transgender Pride parade called LGBT Jews against Israeli Apartheid. I wonder if they might join forces with expat Arabs in Western countries to advocate for the right to practice Polygamy AND Gay Marriage. The chances for coalition politics are humorous.
To be fair and honest though, many people here are quite happy with the system: men and women. Many women do not understand why westerners want to defend them and stand up for their rights. To be sure, not all women are happy with how things are. But, of the female teachers I’ve met here who worked in the schools last year, many have told me about conversations where the local women are very specific about what they want in their marriages, and the status quo is good. In fact, with the school system about to adopt an extended school day, these Emirate teachers are threatening to walk off the job because it is very important to them that they have the afternoon time with their families.
In the National’s weekly magazine a couple weeks ago there was an article on the Hajib – or head covering – worn by some Muslim women (and Catholic nuns and Hasidic Jews). In the article a Muslim woman tells about a western woman who thought the Hajib, or head covering, was desired by husbands because it hid signs of domestic violence. The Muslim woman responded that domestic violence is not common here – though she admitted it exists – and pointed to the Hajib as a reason it is not prevalent. She then quoted statistics about domestic violence in the US and said that is exactly what they didn’t want to become, and precisely why she and her daughters would wear the Hajib.
With just a couple days left before school REALLy starts,I'm glad to get one more post up to my blog. The next one may not be for a month or longer, but I'll try to store some savory memories to pass along. In the meantime, here's a photo of two of my teaching colleagues - both Brits - working away as we prepare for the students' return...















